Wasn't Halloween Once Called Black October?

The 3rd quarter statements are arriving (whimpering) in the mailbox. Don't know about you. but so far my net worth is about 1/3 less than it was at the beginning of the year. It appears that this is the only area where I've been able to lose "weight" in quite some time. Talk about crash diets!
Let's get this election over with so we can have some new faces (masks?) to blame as soon as possible. Be sure to vote for your favorite "trick or treater" candidate . . . it'll make you feel a lot better--at least for a little while.

Note:

The next few "day" posts chronicle our recent vacation. I have taken the liberty of posting them in reverse chronological order so it (hopefully) makes a bit more sense as you scroll down through the posts. If you just want to "cut to the chase", go to the link on Day 8 to a "movie" slideshow of all our pictures.

Day 1: The Stars Are Big, The Stars Are Bright

[clap, clap] Deep in the Heart of Texas! On Saturday, my BBL and I set off for our 35th anniversary trip. Over the years we’ve gotten into the habit of trying to get off by ourselves for this occasion. This year on the list of possibilities was Honolulu, New England, and Florida. Instead, we found ourselves in remote Ft. Davis, Texas on our way to an even more remote area of the state. And before you accuse me of spousal abuse, let the record show this trip was her idea! (And I immediately agreed). She had seen an article in the Big D News offering a ready-made 8 day round trip itinerary to Big Bend National Park in far, far (did I mention far?) SW Texas.

Our first day’s goals were to get an early 5am-6am start, check into the Hotel Limpia [est. 1884], eat a decent meal, and get to nearby McDonald Observatory by 8:30pm for their “star-gazing” party. Half of these goals were met.

We pulled out of the driveway at 8 am and spent the next 9 ½ hours in the car, about a quarter of it with a (legit) 80 mph speed limit. We managed to squeeze in 2 stops for gas (one in Monahans—home of Texas’ Sahara-like Desert) and a ½ hour stop in Balmorhea State Park that encompasses a 1 million gallon/hour San Soloman Spring-fed swimming pool. Quite a remarkable sight in the middle of the desert.

Around 6 pm we checked into #22, a cozy “step-saver” of a room. Seven pillows were already residing in there, making it feel a tad bit smaller than tiny, and providing proof that not every thing is bigger in Texas. We did have the outstanding luxury of a private bathroom. The toilet seat will be memorable – sitting on it reminded me of my last attempt to ride a horse.

A decent dinner at the Hotel Limpia Dining Room was our other unmet goal. Evidently the primary purpose of the dining room is to get guests to walk through a LARGE gift shop and not necessarily to serve quality food.

McDonald Observatory was definitely the day’s highlight. We arrived just at sunset. Although the night wasn’t perfectly clear, as the sky got darker, the stars got bigger, brighter and more plentiful. We could actually see The Milky Way with the naked eye [truth in blogging notes: I’m near-sighted so I still required my prescription glasses. And the Observatory is not really in the heart of Texas but closer to what could be considered the left love-handle—if you leave El Paso out of the consideration]. Anyway, naked eyes weren’t really required. The staff had half a dozen manned telescopes for us to take in the billions of stars. They also performed a “Constellation Tour” in an outdoor amphitheater. They had an amazingly effective green laser which they used to point out groups of stars that were supposed to resemble big and small bears, scorpions, sea-goats, hunters, etc., but I was lost in a cloud of cosmic dust after they pointed out the Big Dipper. If you ever get to this area, put this on your ‘to do” list and be sure to dress warm. Altitude (~8000’), darkness and wind make a chilly combination—even in lower left Texas.

Saturday pictures

Day 2: When Did Breakfast Become A Drug?

We woke earlier than we wanted the next morning. Seems our fellow hotel guests were bicyclers anticipating their upcoming endorphin highs – sounded like about a dozen of them in the hallway “good morning’ing” each other and inquiring “Did you sleep well?”. We wanted to yell out that we hadn’t, but instead minded our manners. Got up and encountered the highest shower head I had ever seen. Must have been close to 9’ tall—certainly seemed out of proportion to the size of the bedroom!

Thankfully, the H. L. Dining Room was not open for breakfast. We ventured across the street to “The Drugstore” whose only merchandise was breakfast and lunch (and the obligatory gift crapola). We settled in and enjoyed the best (and biggest) breakfast we’ve had in a long, long time. I’d recommend the “Drugstore Special” to anyone—particularly the H. L Dining Room. The two pieces of ham that accompanied the eggs and wheatberry toast positively would have embarrassed the two thin pork chops from my last meal. Breakfast may not be a drug, but it certainly could become habit forming here!

We wandered next door into the lobby of the Harvard Hotel where we met Rick, the lonely manager who was more than happy to provide a personal tour of the facility. We discovered huge, bordering on suite-like, rooms (our seven pillows would be lost in here). Learned the hotel had only been built a couple of years ago and is one of the business units of the Sproul Ranch, which also provides Harvard University a location for their radio telescope on the outskirts of town. Very competitive rates – we definitely will stay here during our next visit to the area.

Then it was off to do all the stuff there is to do in Ft. Davis, which is primarily to see old Ft. Davis, a National Historic Park. It was established in 1852 to protect the early pioneers and other invaders traveling on the San Antonio-El Paso Overland Road from the region’s Indians/insurgents. We learned that at one time over 800 cavalry were stationed here. The site was selected for the local availability of water, wood, grass for grazing (800 Buffalo Soldiers require about as many horses) and cool air—rather than for it’s strategic location to fight Indians. The most impressive remaining feature of the fort was the replica row of officers’ quarters situated in front of an equally impressive sandstone mesa. The (large) hospital had also been rebuilt on its original site. We were impressed with the original foresight to locate it as far away from their military cemetery as they could. We hiked up the trail to the top of the mesa where we gazed down on both Ft Davis’s. From up there it was easy to see the original row of officers’ quarters was built along a line that pointed true north. The re-built line followed magnetic north. The park ranger could not offer an explanation why.

From the fort it was a short drive to Indian Lodge State Park (perhaps there exists a politically correct need to offer equal billing to the Indians?). We discovered a very nice appearing white motel-type unit with the best view I’ve ever seen from a state-owned swimming pool. We also discovered the existence of their Black Bear Restaurant. The Park Ranger bragged on the menu (“if you like liver & onions, it’s better than Luby’s”. We wondered where the nearest Luby’s Cafeteria could be that conjured up this comparison).

We then set off on a 75 mile scenic loop drive (as if we needed to add more miles to our itinerary). Beautiful countryside and smooth blacktop gave us a taste of what we were about to experience when we finally got to our ultimate destination. We passed our fellow hotel guests/bicyclers who were doing the same loop on two wheels. They didn’t look as enthusiastic as they sounded a few hours ago! Actually they looked exhausted.

Took a short nap upon our return to the Hotel Limpia and rested up before tackling the “chicken fried steak” at the Black Bear. While not liver and onions, it was still as good as Luby’s. Then back to the Limpia to relax in the courtyard with Tuxedo, the hotel’s mascot mouser, and watch the bicyclers straggle in. We went to bed feeling rather assured of a quieter morning on the morrow.

Sunday pictures

Day 3: Big Bend or Bust

We got a more humane start on the day, loaded up our Pony and departed for Marfa. No Drugstore for breakfast because the Big D News article highly recommended we have breakfast at The Brown Recluse Restaurant to enjoy one of their famous cinnamon rolls. The article made no mention that the place was only open Thursday through Sunday (as we discovered, this being a Monday morning). So we instead stopped in the famous Paisano Hotel, a sister property of the Limpia to get an alternate recommendation. This prompted a debate between the gift store manager and the desk clerk. The feisty gift store manager, a woman approaching maybe 80, won and we headed off to break our fast at Conchito’s. We found it easy enough (it was 3 blocks from the Recluse) but we had totally overlooked it, or perhaps more properly, had looked past it. We would not have opened the plywood door or sat at one of the 5 tables if we had not been directed to it. It was good enough, although not quite Drugstore quality.

Marfa has become somewhat a haven for the “Arts” in this part of the world – but we also discovered that the Arts are closed in Marfa on Mondays too. It appears the creative seeds were planted here when the classic film GIANT (with bad boy heart-throb James Dean) was filmed nearby. The Paisano Hotel became the base for the film’s production. The other thing Marfa is known for is its “Mystery Lights,” supposedly a supernatural phenomenon that occurs occasionally often enough. Personally, I think it’s a combination of the Observatory’s Constellation Tour’s green lasers and the consumption of products from nearby Luz de Estrella Winery (we can now attest that their whites and blushes are very good).

We had one more county courthouse to count before getting to Big Bend. Alpine is the seat of Brewster County which boasts of being the largest (geographically speaking) in Texas [Marfa was the home of Presidio County; Ft. Davis was headquarters for Jeff Davis County]. Alpine has many attractions: it is home to Sul Ross State University, the alma mater of Dan Blocker (who played Hoss in the TV show Bonanza. It is the birthplace of the Reata Restaurant (gourmet cowboy cusine we last experienced in Ft. Worth); It has Kokernot Field (our guidebook said it was modeled on Chicago’s Wrigley Field – after seeing it, my BBL decided the guidebook’s author probably sees Marfa’s Mystery Lights more than anyone else); Amtrak also stops here; and, oh yeah, they have a Sonic drive-in with a 2-4pm happy hour.

Gourmet fed, happy hour refreshed with diet limeades, and a full tank of gas, we busted out of Alpine toward Big Bend ~70 miles away (but still in Brewster County). On the way we did a Terlingua ghost town drive-by, but didn’t see any chili. Pulled into Big Bend’s Chisos Mountain Lodge about 4:30 and checked into Room 208 – the only room available when I made the reservation 3 weeks earlier. No phone, no TV, but one each of a small refrigerator and microwave, and two beds. Do we know how to celebrate our 35th anniversary or what?!

Monday pictures

Days 4, 5 & 6: Best Medicine—Take 2 Trails A Day

A couple of days ago when we took our first hike in Ft. Davis, my BBL asked, with a small but happy tear in her eye, if six to nine months ago I could have envisioned us doing this (hiking) again for our anniversary trip. That was 3 cranial operations and a whole lot of recovery, PT and OT therapy ago. When viewed from that perspective, it certainly is a testament to how far we’ve come since those dark days. We once again are so grateful for all who pulled and prayed for us along the way.

My BBL selected the trails we would attempt while here—nothing more challenging than “moderate.” Several trails were closed due to bear activity–it apparently is a banner year for cubs (but not the baseball kind). We were told that 7 baby bears had been spotted. But there were plenty of beautiful trails open to us. I estimate we hiked about 5 miles each day. We’ll let the pictures do the talking.

Tuesday pictures
Wednesday pictures (the Rio Grande was at flood stage—this was as close as we could get)
Thursday pictures

We were sad to have to leave but vowed we will return again. We ended Day 5 at the Gage Hotel in Marathon – another 70 mile destination from the park, but still within the confines of Brewster County.

Upon our arrival, we popped into the Gage’s White Buffalo Cantina for some chips and salsa ($4) and their “signature” margaritas ($8). They had run out of salsa but offered us the alternative of free chips if we bought one of their large bottles of salsa ($5). Strange. And, unfortunately, the margaritas were the worst. When we told the bartender we had no brand preference, he must have interpreted our statement as “hold the tequila.” We gave him the leftover salsa as a tip. However, only fifty feet away we had the best dinner at their restaurant. Hands down, the best meal we’ve had in a long time. Huge walnut crusted scallops, shrimp and a bison ribeye so tender we could cut it with a fork. Strange.

Day 7: Park The Pony

About 2am we discovered why the Gage Hotel provides complimentary ear plugs in the room. The hotel is literally across the street from the mainline of the Union Pacific RR. On an intellectual basis it’s easy to understand that the town and the hotel exist because of the railroad; however, the first time you hear the freight train whistling its way past your room, you wonder why they built the hotel so darn close to the tracks!

Our room #39 was located in the Portales annex of the hotel. It provided a beautiful and peaceful sanctuary when a train wasn’t around—quite unique. The room itself had a stocked fireplace and thick adobe walls with wood shutters that darkened the room very effectively.

This was our designated day to “veg.” We decided that the Mustang needed a rest too so it stayed parked all day while we explored Marathon on foot (which didn’t take all that long). The town is laid out very logically, if somewhat un-creatively. North-South roads are Avenues A, B, C, D, etc. while East-West roads are First, Second, Third, Fourth, Fifth and Sixth Streets. The Elementary and High Schools are way up around Fifth and Sixth Streets (go a block further to get to the six-man football field). Our waitress for dinner this day was a sophomore here. Her class totaled three people. Her goal was to graduate valedictorian and get the hell out of Marathon (to attend UConn). But I get ahead of myself.

Our first breakfast attempt was at Shirley’s Burnt Biscuit Bakery, two blocks from the hotel. Isn’t that a great name for a restaurant? Unfortunately, their breakfast sandwiches consisted of pre-made Saran wrapped things that you could warm up in their microwave. Reminded me of the breakfast offering at a 7-11. We backtracked to Johnny B’s, an establishment only open from 7-11am. Had some great blueberry pancakes and managed to stay under their limit of three refills on the coffee.

Next stop was the bookstore back down the block. The owner is also the custodian of the town museum and library, which seems perfectly rational. We bought a book on CD and , in turn, were offered the key for a personal visit, but we declined as we had a much too busy schedule to dawdle in a museum/library. Back we went to relax in the Portales area outside our room. Got acquainted with the Gage’s no-name cat who insisted upon being paid some attention. Then we walked all the way over to The French Market (French refers to a surname, not a nation) where we split a deli sandwich while I made my BBL’s day by letting her slaughter me at Scrabble. Then I required a nap to help me recover from such a hectic pace.

Before you knew it, it was time to relax again, then walk all the way to the Courtyard Café, an annex of the Marathon Motel & RV Park, which is the Gage’s competition. Along the way we passed a most remarkably painted garage door—a perfect five-pointed star in a circle. It must have taken longer to paint this than it did to build the garage! At the Café we met the aforementioned student and had our last supper in Brewster County – a very Texan sliced brisket and baked potato. Also took my last sunset pictures as the sun set behind the Glass Mountains.

Friday pictures

Day 8: Only 1600 Miles And It’s Over Already?

The end of a vacation is always the worst part and this one was certainly no exception to the rule. Home was only a 10 hour drive away. We listened to our book on CD which helped to pass the time as we approached normalcy again. The most exciting thing that happened was getting stuck in a traffic jam with just fumes in the tank for fuel, wondering if our next hike might be to a gas station.

We pulled into our driveway just under 180 hours and 1600 miles after we left it. Hope this narrative doesn’t scare you away from your own adventure to Big Bend. We had a blast and look forward to doing it again (really!).

Our Big Bend Trip (the movie version) The movie is about 40 minutes long--you've been warned!